From function to feeling: The new language of sustainable beauty packaging

Balancing compliance, creativity and consumer expectations

Sustainability is no longer a nice-to-have; it’s an urgent necessity driven by tightening global regulations. Kim notes that many brands are still catching up after treating sustainability as optional for too long. In terms of beauty packaging, “we’re slightly behind the curve in getting on top of it.” She points to once-leading brands like REN and The Body Shop, saying both “have lost momentum” in refill and reuse.

Kim sees a particular opportunity to revitalise refill formats, which she says, “have felt very samey.” Pouches are common but often unrecyclable, and pouring them into standard bottles lacks engagement. She sees space to “bring back excitement around the idea of refilling – how it works, how it looks,” especially for younger consumers drawn to distinctive, standout packaging. “That’s where brands can innovate and differentiate themselves.”

But perception remains a barrier. Refillable makeup still sees low uptake. Kim says, “Making refill options simple and intuitive is key. If it’s not easy, consumers won’t do it.” This is why Trinny London has focused on categories where reuse is more readily adopted.

Kim also reflects on the shift in how we talk about sustainability. Early conversations centred on lifecycle analysis – carbon, water, energy – but, she says, “the average consumer doesn’t connect with terms like ‘carbon reduction’; they understand tangible things like ‘this bottle is made from recycled materials.’” Today, brands aim to balance sustainability with quality, using post-consumer recycled (PCR) content without sacrificing look or function.

It’s a delicate balance. “Some brands lost sight of the importance of quality, functionality, and aesthetic” during the first wave of green enthusiasm. Success means delivering on all fronts – performance, sustainability, and appeal. That’s especially tough for founder-led brands where, as Kim says, “founders want full visibility and don’t want to compromise on anything.” Yet compromises are sometimes necessary: PCR might cause slight greying in packaging, which can challenge consumer perceptions.

This trade-off becomes even more complex at premium price points. “At The Body Shop, sustainability was in the brand’s DNA, so consumers were more forgiving. If a bottle was slightly grey due to PCR, they accepted it, even expected it.” But for luxury brands like Jo Malone, where visual quality is paramount, “introducing recycled glass that changes perceived quality can be more problematic.”

Ultimately, Kim’s view is clear: there’s no one-size-fits-all approach. The path to sustainable packaging requires careful alignment between brand identity, consumer expectations, regulatory demands, and innovation. However, with strategic thinking and creative intent, the industry can move forward-building packaging that is as responsible as it is desirable.

Innovation through collaboration

Functionality is non-negotiable in packaging, but aesthetics carries equal weight in beauty. Managing a broad product range makes this balance even more complex, requiring every design to blend usability with visual appeal.

For Kim, innovation often starts by looking outside the beauty world. Reflecting on her time at Jo Malone, she recalls, “We looked at the drinks industry where they’re often a step ahead in glass finishes, techniques, and packaging innovations.” Inspiration can strike anywhere, from advent calendars to household brands like Joseph Joseph. “How can we apply these cross-industry learnings to cosmetics?” she asks. Events like London Packaging Week offer fertile ground for cross-pollination: “You might stumble across an idea in a completely different category that sparks something new.”

Smaller brands like Trinny London also have an edge in procurement. Unlike big players tied to fixed supplier lists, Trinny enjoys “the freedom to pursue new innovations if we spot something really exciting.” That openness fosters collaboration: “We give credit where it’s due and build relationships.” New supplier partnerships are vital, especially when old ones grow complacent. “A new partner can reinvigorate things with fresh thinking,” Kim says.

The packaging landscape has changed dramatically over Kim’s career. Her mother once worried a design degree would lead to “a job market stall,” but today, Kim sees a vast, creative, and strategic industry behind the scenes. “There’s a whole behind-the-scenes industry there,” she says, where imaginative formats constantly redefine the consumer experience. “There’s always something surprising to discover.”

Packaging is integral to the brand experience in beauty, and the innovation hasn’t peaked. Advent calendars are a clear example: “Five or six years ago, they’d probably make you cringe, but now they’re beautiful, elaborate pieces.” Post-COVID, brands have had to reinvent themselves, and packaging is often what “stops consumers scrolling on Instagram.” It must be “eye-catching, original, and clever.”

Supplier relationships are crucial. For Kim, they’re not just transactional but deeply collaborative. “We look for people who really understand our brand,” she says. What sets great suppliers apart isn’t flashy tech; it shows why an idea matters. “Demonstrate that you’ve taken the time to understand who we are, who our customers are, what our aesthetic is, and how we operate.” Even details like colour palette matter.

As the beauty industry evolves rapidly, PCD remains at the forefront—uniting the brightest minds, boldest ideas, and most forward-thinking suppliers in packaging. This trusted platform is why experts like Kim and innovative brands like Trinny regularly explore its supplier network, finding fresh inspiration and collaborations that push the boundaries of what’s possible.

PCD will return as part of London Packaging Week on 15 & 16 October 2025 at Excel London, once again setting the stage for groundbreaking ideas and next-generation design. From sustainable solutions to standout aesthetics, PCD London will continue to paint a compelling vision for the future of beauty packaging.